Decals Parts Props for desk top model-allyn sales

[billb6]

Hi, I have a desk top 1. ASHTRAY model-allyn sales B-47 and a 2.WWII P-51 Mustang 3.Model B-36 Convair Strategic Bomber Desk Top Ashtray.
Is there anyplace I can get decals ,Props etc.?
Bill

[MichaelB]

One easy solution is to look for decals and parts from commonly available plastic model kits. There are also a number of aftermarket decals for military aircraft - if you want to get into it. You need to estimate the scales of your pieces and look for the same size in a kit.
Beyond that, you can fabricate them yourselves or wait for those who are into this aspect of the hobby to suggest repair sites.
Good luck!
Michael

[billb6]

Great!! Thank You Michael

[grwebster]

If no one else comes up with prop ideas you might look at this site, They have props,canopies, misc parts for everything, it seems, metal, plastic etc, all major makes.
also the prop and canopy for that P-51
http://store.classictintoy.com/mm5/merc ... ry_Code=A2

[soslipstream]

Bill,

Michael's suggestion is probably the best for the decals. The Allyn P-51 is about 1/50 scale so FRESH 1/48 scale
decals (avoid the old and yellowed ones) to your liking is a good way to go. You can use some 1/72 decals from a bomber that were a little bigger than 1/72 from a fighter. I go to ebay and use the dealer under the "runforcover" handle out of NY. GR is right about prop with Classic Tin Toy. Talk to Heinz and he can set you up. His prices are a bit salty and he does not discount. I have seen his P-51 canopy and it is OK. I have not seen the prop so I cannot comment on that. There is an issue of extracting the old assembly. I have not heard any pleasant stories on that issue. many end up with a portion of the back of the shaft floating around the inside of the fuelage and hard to extract. On yours, you might try resecuring the blade using JB Weld which is a "cold weld" epoxy system that possibly might work. It would be best if you could drill a .015" diam hole into the prop stub and an .025" diam hole into stub at the hub and inserting a short section of .015" music wire before the JB Weld.

This issue caused me many conundrums until I went a whole new way. This method is for the P-51 with all its blades missing... Since the Allyn propeller had narrow, pointed prop blades, opting for a more scale profile seemed to be a better choice. I created a fixture to affix the airplane with an integrated hub clamp to keep the hub from rotating. I use this on my drill press to bore out new prop holes. Then I use slightly modified 1/48 scale resin props as replacements. I didn't care for the original injection molded canopy and carved my own for that as well. Here is a photo of Ladd's (a member here of MAC) that I did last year...

Regards, Tom Sanders

[billb6]

THANKS FOR ALL THE GREAT TIPS \PS.YOU DO GREAT WORK.
BILL

[billb6]

Tom, I went on e bay nothing under runforcover .Do you have a user name
Bill

[soslipstream]

Bill,

Here is a sample..

http://cgi.ebay.com/P-51-Mustang-357th- ... 5adf66d9c5

Search ebay using "P-51 Mustang Decals", "Runforcover!" will pop up in the first page.

Tom

[billb6]

GOT IT!!!!

[soslipstream]

Bill,

Some of those original "decals" on the Allyn P-51 were actually paper stickers. The "stars and bars" were usually paper and adhesive. When you choose to remove those, use some lighter fluid dipped with a Q-tip. It's less noxious than acetone and much easier to clean. Just wipe the fluid onto the decal and let each soak about 2 minutes and then start rubbing them off. A paper towel dipped likwise makes a nice, safe abrasive surface as well.

BTW, lighter fluid is the same stuff used in commercial dry cleaning solution. It is great for removing glues and smears from wood moldings and floors as well. Handy Stuff to keep in the workshop.

Tom