Bronzart Identification models

[admin]

I have seen a Bronzart desk model of a C-46, it is smaller than 1:72 scale ID models and does not have under carriage. Doesn't have a hole through the fuselage, either, just one underneath for the stand.

[BWBrown]

And another thing.....! Military training models always depicted aircraft in flight. That's when you would be expected to have to shoot at them. Landing gear was shown only on aircraft having fixed gear. -- Bryan

[grwebster]

on eBay now there is a Bronzart C-46 on a stand
search 'brozart'

[grwebster]

Bryan, about id models not having landing gear if they are retractable, I do have an oddity in my collection.
This is a wooden British 1:72nd scale B-36 which is made exactly like all the post war wooden British IDs. Not overly finished or even sanded down. However this one has machined wood props {again not sanded or finished in any way} and some very basic metal gear legs and turned wood wheels, also not sanded down.... These additions were not made by some child or amateur modeler, the metal gear legs and axles were welded, and props and hubs are professionally machine manufactured parts and scale like. No gear doors were applied.
I have often wondered about it. I got the model more than 20 years ago from Alan turner in Amsterdam. For reasons that he never explained, he repainted it, just before sending it - so if there was a British reference 'stores' decal or stamp, it was obliterated.

[car15]

on eBay now there is a Bronzart C-46 on a stand
search 'brozart'

Can't find it. Can you post a link?

[BWBrown]

I recall having seen it in passing. It is by Bronzart, alright, but it is a small-scale desktop model, not an ID model. Looked like it might be about 1/100 in size, although I didn't scale it out to be sure.

[grwebster]

The C-46 was sold.
It was the small desk model one on a stand.

[soslipstream]

Has anyone had success with reattaching parts on Bronzart metal airplanes? I purchased a vinatge P-47C and the seller neglected to properly pack the airplane. It arrived with one stab snapped off and the rear of the base cracked off. A real shame to have to send back. Am still on the hunt for this P-47 to round out an 8th Air Force display to be publicly shown in the spring.

Regards,
Tom Sanders

[BWBrown]

Hi Tom -
If the broken part is hollow, it's fairly easy to reinforce the break using steel rod and epoxy putty. In your case, one solution is simply to glue the pieces together. Gap-filling super gel is the thing to use. Gel fills cracks and porosities, while super glue does not. It will form a fairly strong bond, and should hold well if you minimize handling. If you are willing to put a little more effort into the repair, then you can drill a couple of small holes on each side of the break using a pin vise, and reinforce the joint with piano wire, or something similar. The tricky part is ensuring that you get the parts lined up exactly, since any unintended offset will result in some filling, filing, and sanding to take care of. You can drill the holes a bit oversize (using maybe a #72 drill bit).This will allow you to move the parts around until you get the best alignment possible. Again, use gap-filling super gel, along with some stiff wire. A clipped segment of a paper clip works well, particularly the kind that has a rough, grainy finish. Any stiff wire with some texture to it is better than smooth wire which offers less of a purchase. This will make for a stronger joint, although you still won't be able to pick the plane up by the stabilizer! On the other hand, you probably couldn't do that with the unbroken stabilizer, either! Painting to match will be your final task.

Good luck with it! If you are not sure about doing the job yourself, I can fix it for free, although you will have to spring for the round-trip airfare (for the model, not for me!). I'd need some pictures first, just to see what the task involves. Let me know if you have any questions, or if I can help!

-- Bryan

[BWBrown]

Another note on repairing Bronzart models: Some models may have cracks or small chunks missing. Unfortunately, many early cast metal models, Bronzarts included, develop "lead rot". This is a slow deterioration of the metal, and is irreversible. However, you can extend the life of a model considerably by filling the cracks. The stuff to use is "JB Weld". This is an epoxy metal, developed during the Great Depression. It allowed farmers to repair engine blocks, cylinder heads, etc. When this stuff sets up it can be filed, drilled, and tapped for bolts. JB Weld is available at any auto parts store. The stuff flows, so you can't glop it over a hole that isn't backed with something. It will all flow into the hole. It's great for cracks, though! To fill holes in a hollow model when you can't get inside to block off the hole, use "JB Weld Qwik". Qwik is the same epoxy metal, but it is more viscous. It may sag, but it doesn't tend to run. This increased viscosity makes it less desirable for crack filling, however. If you will be repairing Bronzart models you should probably have both.